St Peter and St Paul, Upper Stoke - Kent
 

PARISH CHURCH OF ST. PETER AND ST PAUL, STOKE

It is impossible at this stage to accurately date the first church building in Stoke but we know that Stoke itself was given to the See of Rochester by Ecgberht, King of Kent sometime between 664 and 673 AD "for the good of his soul and for the remission of his sins”. This makes it one of the first donations of land to the Church, It is likely that there was some settlement here in Roman times, and that there were salt workings on the marshes even in those days. In Saxon times Stoke was an important place, as we know by its name. In those days it was called Andschohesham, a “ham on the stockaded land”. In early Saxon days a place protected by a stockade would attract people needing a refuge for their cattle, and would become more important than a settlement ending with “ton” or “ham”. Later the name was shortened to Estoches, and it is recorded under this name in the Domesday book of 1086. The entry for Stoches or Stoke states that there was a church with four servants and four acres of meadows, and this and all the other land and villeins were held by the Bishop of Rochester.

Stoke church was originally dedicated only to St. Peter, until at least 1524, with St. Paul added at some time after that. The position of the church is due to the people of the village settling along the high ground above the Saltings. The village developed as scattered housing on the margins of firm ground above the reach of the highest tides, although the lower land was probably farmed as it would be very fertile. The oldest part of the present church dates from about 1175. However, from earlier historical recordings of the church building, it is difficult to establish whether the south or the north aisle is thought to be the earliest. Historians have written that “the pillars of the south arcade are Norman, octagonal, and carry the massive quality so usual in Norman work." However, as you will see, the octagonal pillars are actually on the north side of the church, and the south arcade has rounded, squatter pillars, although the arches are similar in style. Another historian claims that it is this aisle which is the oldest, with Norman transition pillars, capitals and arches. It would appear to be uncertain!

The font at the back of the south aisle is a circular tub shape, which has been claimed to be Norman, although others believe it to be Saxon. Its simple shape and workmanship certainly incline to an earlier Saxon time, but at this stage it is yet to be firmly established one way or the other.

The next addition was the other arcade and aisle, presumably on the northern side, with its original lancet window, although the present glass, of course, is of a much more recent date. The chancel also dates from this period. Within the chancel is an ornamented stone coffin lid near to the altar on the north side, while on the south side is the outline of the priest’s door, which would have led to a separate chapel, dedicated the Blessed Virgin Mary. On the same wall is a piscina niche with a foliated canopy.

In the south aisle is a piscina with a fox and a lion's head, the lion putting his tongue out. This is fourteenth century work, which supports the view that the south aisle at one time was the chantry for Malmaynes Hall, which was granted to the manor of Malmaynes around 1380, and that below the aisle was the family vault. Many centuries later, when the roof above the aisle was being repaired, the vault became flooded, and this is popularly supposed to have caused the pillar closest to the east window to have tilted out of true.

The fifteenth century was a busy time for the fabric of the church, with two windows in the north aisle being added, and the window above the font, Again, the glass is of a later date. Most of the roof timbers date from this time, and the north and south doors. The present door in the south wall is a modern addition; but the main door in the north aisle is very ancient with massive oak timbers. The tale of the tower starts in this century, with bequests for the building work from 1479 onwards. The tower itself stands, but the steeple, which was planned for many years, and towards which many Stoke villagers, and benefactors from further afield gave donations of money and goods, was never built, although the reason has never been fully explained. The tower appears to have been built or re-built from 1470 to 1550, and it may be that all the money donated towards the steeple was used in the building of the tower. Some believe that the Reformation intervened and that the work was abandoned, and others that the siting of a steeple so close to the estuary would have been thought to be too dangerous, acting as a beacon to invaders. Whatever the reason, no steeple has ever been added to the tower, which at least gives us the opportunity to climb the 53 steps, and enjoy the panoramic views from the top! Within the tower, the belfry contains three bells which have been recently restored along with parts of the bell frame, at a cost of many thousands of pounds. One bell is relatively modern, and the others are 16th and 17th century.

Over the last three centuries little new work has been added to the church, but various repairs have been carried out including a major restoration programme in 1898. Over the years the glass in the windows has been replaced, and there appears to be no documentation about the original or subsequent glass. At the present time there is a beautiful glass in the lancet window of the north aisle, showing three pomegranates in tones of blue, turquoise and gold. Nearby is a window designed and donated by Mrs. Marjorie Crofts, depicting St. Francis of Assissi, with rushes, poppies, a white dove and a kingfisher. This was made by Maile Studios of Canterbury and presented in 1985. The window above the font is of stained glass dedicated "to the memory of those baptised here", and is of exceptionally good quality for a later window. The main east window in the chancel is dedicated to the Goord family, and dates from 1938. It was made by Celtic Studios of Swansea, a small studio founded in 1933 by Howard Martin and his cousin Hubert Thomas. They designed and made stained glass for houses, a cinema, pub, chapels and churches, and there is a large amount of their work in Toronto, Canada. The window here cost £409. 10s. and shows St. Peter and St. Paul with Christ in the centre panel. St. Peter is holding two keys, and St. Paul holding a sword. No other examples of stained glass exist in the church.

The wooden rood screen between the chancel and nave was presented by the Churchwardens to commemorate those villagers who died in the great war of 1914-­1918. Above the pulpit is a simple plaque recording those who gave their lives in the Second World War. At the back of the church is a list of vicars of Stoke from Adam de Hanele in 1244 to the present incumbent, Walter Robbins. Also recorded in a brief history of the church, found near the altar, is a list of chantry priests from 1390 to 1530.


Outside the church is a pretty lych gate in the boundary wall, surrounding the churchyard. On the wall outside the south door is a holy water stoup, dating back some centuries.

--- Elizabeth Grant, June 1996